Why do people like surfing

And let's face it, with surfing we are always learning. Being a surfer, means being part of a community, on a local and global scale, and it often means sharing experiences with others. Becoming part of a surf community takes respect, attention and sometimes thick skin, but sharing surf trips to foreign shores, 5am dawn patrols, perfect sunset sessions, to stormy winter surfs, it is no wonder that surfers have a tribe mentality.

Crack open a case of Shlitz ale post surf, and start talking bout that wave that Kevin dropped in on. Let the good times roll. Party wave. Didn't I just say that friendship is a great reason to learn to surf? Yep, but so is being alone. Everything is possible. Deal with it. Sure, you can surf in a contest for points, but the activity of surfing at its core is not a team sport and it is not about winning or losing.

It is about something a little deeper. It can be meditative. While you may spend a lot of time surfing with friends and hooting and hollering down the lineup, a fair deal of time spent in the surf is spent sitting, attentively and looking out at the water.

I don't mean to sound all Tony Robbins, but surfing can be about personal growth. But it is true unless any of you scientists out there are working on a cure for death. Surfing is about life, it is about trying to squeeze every drop of life out of each moment and feel what it is like to be a real, genuine human being here on planet crazy.

While the act of surfing is like an involuntary live-in-the-moment switch, forcing one into the present situation, most surfers have an NSA-sized mental archive of memories stored away in the ol' surf spank bank, reserved for dentists' waiting rooms, math class and lonely nights ;.

Surfing feels good. Real good. It feels the way Marvin Gaye sounds. Some of my best memories of surfing have been during the harshest winter days. It can be done safely, but you have to be strategic and plan ahead.

You are the one responsible for your safety, and incorporating some of these tips into your sessions, will help you stay out of trouble and get the most out of winter. And while I do love a warm weather paddle, fall is actually number one on my list.

The crowds die down as the water cools and the brilliant leaves add beauty to flat water paddle excursions. But the top reason I love autumn is that it marks the beginning of the SUP surf season.

Close menu. More Boards. Rentals Repairs. How to improve your duck dive technique in 4 simple steps. What is and how to treat a neoprene wetsuit allergy. The curious story of Mr. Zog's Sex Wax. Surfers only ride a wave for an average time of six seconds, and the waves of their lives only arrive from time to time. Each surfer will have his or her own list of reasons they are drawn so irresistibly to the sport, but accounting for commonality, here are 25 very good reasons why surfing is so addictive: 1.

Riding a wave is a breathless experience; 2. Adrenaline injections pump our heart and blood; 3. Sun, salt, and sand are a virtuous blend; 4. Oceans have a positive impact on human health; 5. The best way to forget your daily problems is to face bigger challenges; 6.

In the lineup, you're alone with everybody; 7. Every wave has a different feeling; 8. As you progress, you're compelled to surf better each day; 9. There are waves in every corner of the world; It's a great way of living life; A beer tastes better after a surf session; Personal surfing photos are inestimable; Only a surfer knows the feeling; Feeling depressed? Hit the waves! Nobody said surfing was easy. While virtually anyone can start surfing mild beach breaks with a bit of instruction.

Getting out on the waves is as close as it gets to becoming one with Mother Nature. Surfing is exhilarating, healthy, and helps to instil an appreciation for life and the natural world. Looking for a fun way to get fit? Look no further than surfing! It works all the major muscle groups and gets you active like no other hobby. Find skiing too cold? Think hiking is too isolating? Surfing in a scenic holiday spot delivers great weather, a fun and social experience, plus incomparable views.

Surfing is a healthy activity, helps get you fit, shows skill and looks cool. Strangely enough, many people find these things attractive.

Surfers tend to care about the state of the oceans because they enjoy being in them and would rather not swim and surf in polluted waters. Surfing also gives you an awareness and appreciation of the natural world. The sheer spectacle that daredevil big wave surfers like Garrett McNamara create regularly puts surfing on the front pages of many mainstream news sources.

Identification with a group can be a powerful feeling. Surfers share a common love and lifestyle. This brings people together, bridging different cultures, classes, nationalities and walks of life. The clothes, the music, the slang… surfing culture has spread all over the world and is popular with surfers and non-surfers alike.

Depending on your skill level and what kind waves you like to ride, surfing can provide some serious thrills — if you dare. Besides the beach, the sea, the sun and the sand, surfers sometimes interact with amazing animals including dolphins, sea lions and even whales! For Ancient Hawaiians, it was a spiritual art form. Whether they know it or not, each surfer is connected to this hallowed tradition.

Since the s surfing has continued to grow as a sport, both professionally and in terms of amateur popularity.