Why are oleanders dying

This article will explain each of the causes, how to identify them, and the steps to take to correct and prevent future issues. Oleanders are considered hardy and relatively low maintenance trees. That being said, compacted soil can inhibit their ability to thrive. This is mostly an issue with young Oleanders that have not have a few years to establish its root system but even aged Oleanders can suffer from growth stunt related to compacted soil.

The best way to determine if the soil surrounding your Oleander is too compacted is to dig into it just outside the root line. Make sure not to cut into roots but you want to dig several inches down. If the ground is difficult to dig into with a shovel, the roots of your Oleander will have an equally difficult time expanding.

You can incorporate compost into the compacted soil surrounding the tree. Be sure to stay just outside of the root line so as not to stress the plant. Another helpful material to mix into the compacted soil is expanded shale link to Amazon , a trick I learned from a garden center in the Houston area when I was looking into planting a palm tree in my clay soil yard. Since I have heavy clay soil, this was where I assumed I was having a problem. I incorporated liberal amounts of organic material into the ground.

It turned out that this was not my issue in this case. Drooping of Oleander leaves can be a sign of disease, specifically Leaf Scorch. This is a bacterial infection caused by Xylella fastidiosa. If the leaves of your Oleander are yellowing and drooping, this may be the cause. Often confused with drought-related stress, leaf scorch usually begins with yellowing at the tips and advances throughout the leaf as the disease progresses source. The yellowing and drooping leaves will likely be the first sign of infection.

Check the ground surrounding the plant to ensure that the soil is not excessively dry. If you can rule out drought-related symptoms, Leaf Scorch may be the problem. It is generally recommended that the plant be removed to prevent future infection of any other surrounding Oleander trees source. As the limbs grow longer and filled with leaves and blooms, they become heavy and will appear to droop. Remember what you are trying to accomplish when selecting options for your missing screen or buffer.

The oleanders probably hid a myriad sins and also provided privacy. These are my recommended plants for oleander replacement:. This is an extremely tolerant, rugged plant that is a good evergreen replacement for the oleander in the lower deserts. Arizona rosewood is used for informal screening and can grow to 25 feet tall and 15 feet wide. The leaves are leathery and shiny. Small white flowers appear in late spring. This columnar hybrid live oak has proven itself as a great replacement for areas where large oleanders have been lost.

The Cathedral live oak has the dense foliage and glossy leaves of the live oak but in a less spreading form. This live oak can be left growing full to the ground, and I would recommend planting it on foot centers for maximum screening. Eventually, these will grow together and create a full, drought-tolerant screen. Another drought-tolerant alternative replacement, it can create an informal hedge to 12 feet. Hopbushes are evergreen and commonly found in the green and bronze form.

Purpurea from Australia is a purple form and is less hardy than the native green forms from Mexico. It is a large, multitrunked evergreen shrub that grows up to 25 feet by 15 feet. The leaves are dense, leathery and aromatic. If you leave all the growth to the ground, I think this makes a nice alternative replacement for the oleander in small garden areas.

Deep watering in the summer and planting in well-drained soil are essential. Oleander plants are usually drought-tolerant. Oleander plants need one inch of water per week to thrive. If you water them more than needed, the plant runs into issues like root rot.

Water your Oleander plant once a week. An inch of water per week is enough for the plant to thrive. Water only when the top inches of the soil is dry. Various types of fungi can cause spots on the leaves of Oleander plants.

Yellow bordered spots are caused by a fungal pathogen called Stemphylium. Such spots enlarge and become blotches. You can prevent leaf spot diseases in Oleander by keeping the leaves dry. Wet leaves harbor and encourage the growth of fungi. Dispose of the infected leaves to prevent the spread of infection to other plants. Improve air circulation by pruning your Oleander.

This pathogen enters the plant through wounds. Plants infected by this plant develop galls or knots on the leaves, flowers, and stems of the Oleander plant. Oleander knot disease spreads after the cool, damp springs. The bacterial pathogen enters the plant via wounds or winter damage.

The infection also spreads via contaminated water, tools, or human hands. So, be careful when you handle infected plants. Treat the plants carefully and the plant will recover itself if it can.